![]() ![]() If it dries, it results in "dead" plaster that is uncured, and will just be dust that brushes off of the final wall. Remember, plaster needs to cure, not dry just like concrete. It is imperative that you keep it from fdrying out before it cures. While you are waiting, spray dry spots with water to keep the whole wall moist. Wait until it is sets up all the way through the whole layer. The surface will start to set up first and almost have a bit of a "crust" on it. You want it to be set up all the way through to whole thickness of the finsh coat. This is the part that I found hard to judge at first. Now wait until the finish coat of plaster starts to set up. Just flat and relatively smooth is what you want for now. ![]() Don't worry about that just yet, leave those lines alone for now. Once the wall is covered, go back over it to get it as smooth and flat as possible, but you will still have lines from the sharp edge of the trowel. For the basecoat, don't go back over it any more once it starts to set up, you'll only make things worse, not better.Ī day after the you do the basecoat, for the final finish coat, do most things just as described above, except for the finish troweling. If it's just the base coat, don't worry about smooth, you actually want a rough surface so the next coat will have something to grab on to. Go back over it before it has started to set up to get the thickness uniforn over the wall, and to make sure the surface is flat. Then continue with the next blob and so on until you have covered the wall section. Continue to spread and trowel it until it is approching the final thinckness. Apply a blob of plaster to the wall and while moving the trowel upward to press it onto the wall while trying to keep the blob from falling off. I got myself a good stainless steel trowel made by Marshalltown (I think that's the name). You'll need a hawk to hold a managable portion of plaster while you work, and then go ahead and apply with a trowel. If you are doing a base coat, mix it according to instructions, paying attention to not mix it too long. But don't put it on too far in advance, because you are supposed to do you plaster within a day or few days of application of the bonding agent. Allow to dry according to instructions, which I believe is something like letting it dry at least until it appears dry to the touch. I'll give you the condensed version of what I know:Īpply bonding agent with brush or roller, whichever is more convenient. I guess it was just a combination of talking to a professional, reading some books and websites, and just plain old trying it out and seeing what I did wrong. I'm trying to remember how I learned what I know about plastering. Sorry, I don't know of any videos or anything. It's different from applying regular drywall mud, so even if you think you are good at that it still helps to practice your pastering technique. ![]() It takes some practice to get the surface flat and smooth, and to know how long to let the paster set up before going back over it for final smoothing. If you have never done real plaster before, practice on some scrap drywall. However, in my limited experience, it seems to me that it would be the right thing to do and I would probably go ahead and do it if I found myself in that situation. I have not used bonding agent and veneer plasters over brick or painted surfaces, so I can't directly comment on that. So to get around this, that is why I just use the the bonding agent over regular drywall. Surprizingly, blue board is not available in my area, however, the veneer plasters that are to be used over blueboard are available. In your case, you could change the thickness of the basecoat, or eliminate it altogether. Since the drywall is 1/2", and the plaster wall is typically 3/4" thick, that accounts for 3/16" basecoat + 1/16" finish coat over the drywall to be flush with the original plaster. Then I do the coat of finish plaster over everything. ![]() Then I do the basecoat plaster over the drywall and also over the lath to create a smooth surface. I start by using Larsen's on the drywall patch and on all of the exposed wood lath. Sometimes I will put in a drywall patch that abuts some wood lath where the plaster has fallen off. Formatting link?query=cat:6&product=57 A lot of my use of this system is for patching up an old house that has plaster over wood lath. ![]()
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